Thursday, April 11, 2013

Istanbul Part II

Chora Church
 Chora Church contains some of the best preserved Byzantine mosaics left in the world today. Originally built as part of a monastery complex, it was converted into a mosque under the Ottomans in the 16th century. The mosaics were covered, since no human depiction is allowed in Islamic art, but weren't destroyed. The church became a museum in 1948. The mosaics, which cover the church floor to ceiling, tell the story of Gospels, beginning with Mary's birth (from the Apocrypha), and concluding with the Final Judgement. Pictures don't do the mosaics justice; they are breathtaking, and visually disorienting due to the minute detail. Included are some of my favorite mosaics in the church.
Chora Church- Tempting of Jesus by Satan
Chora Church-designed so Jesus is looking at you from any angle
Blue Mosque
Sultan Ahmed Mosque, most commonly referred to as the Blue Mosque, was built from 1609-1616 by Sultan Ahmed I. Wanting to outdo the existing mosques in the area, the sultan ordered six minarets built. However, the mosque in Mecca had six, thus placing this mosque on par with the most holy mosque in all of Islam. Thus, the sultan paid for a seventh minaret to be constructed in Mecca, in order to keep his six. The interior is dominated by blue tile, giving the mosque its nickname. It is massive, and can accommodate over 10,000 worshipers.
Blue Mosque

Blue Mosque
 One of the coolest things I got to do in Istanbul was going into a mosque during prayer time. A couple girls and I decided to go back into the women's section, rather than stand with the other tourists in the main walkway, and watch. The imman's melodic reading of the Koran echoed out over the giant hall, and the women surrounding us stood up, sat down, and kneeled in turn. The beautiful space and reading combined for a truly moving experience. The best part was most of the women who caught my eye while there smiled and nodded encouragingly, welcoming me into their quiet prayer time. This is the type of thing that needs to happen more often; people only fear what they don't know. God was being worshiped in that space.

Blue Mosque
Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia
 Next door to the Blue Mosque sits the Hagia Sophia. From 360 until 1453, it served as an Eastern Orthodox Cathedral, and was the seat of the Patriarch of Constantinople. Under the Ottomans, the church was turned into a mosque from 1453-1931. In 1935, it reopened as a museum, attracting pilgrims and tourists from all over the world.
Hagia Sophia 
Hagia Sophia 
 The church is fascinating inside, for elements of Christianity and Islam can be seen from the buildings use as a cathedral and mosque respectively. As in Chora Church, much of the mosaic work has been preserved, and can be seen today. The iconic yellow ceiling adds to the church's unique appearance.
Hagia Sophia 
Hagia Sophia 
Hagia Sophia 
Hagia Sophia 
Topkapi Palace
 Topkapi Palace was the primary residence for the Ottoman sultans from 1465-1856. It consists of four main courtyards, the sultan's residence, meeting halls, a mosque, hospital, and many other buildings. Today, these buildings house different exhibits with artifacts from the Ottoman period (of which pictures can't be taken...hence the garden pictures!) We saw Ottoman weapons; swords, maces, shields, chain mail, bows and arrows, guns, and helmets. We saw the sultans royal garments for ceremonies, which do indeed match any painting I've ever seen from the time period. We saw the sultans jewels, gold, silver, and jade; as well as collections of gifts from other royal courts around the world. One of the crowning exhibits contains holy relics of Islam, such as keys to the Kaaba, Moses' staff, Abraham's bowl, Muhammad's beard, and Ali's sword.
Topkapi Palace
Topkapi Palace
The best part of Istanbul though was the food. Some of my favorites were: wet burgers (previously described), iskander (bread, soaked in butter, topped with shaved lamb or beef, covered in tomato sauce), donner (basically the Turkish version of Shwerma), and baklava. Sorry, Turkish delight did not win be over, though they do serve it on every Turkish Airlines flight. All in all, Istanbul was a blast, and definitely a city I'd love to return to. Turkish society as a whole is just fascinating, a mix between European and Arab, West and East. While we are all sad travel is ending, we are excited to spend our last week and a half in Jerusalem before heading home. Its sure to go by in a flash.

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