Division and Hope

Yesterday, we continued our tour of the Old City in the Christian Quarter. Though Christians are a minority in this country, they are a vocal and strong group within the city. We began by touring a Greek Catholic Church. Yes, you heard me right. This is actually the most populous denomination of Christians in Israel, embracing most Catholic doctrines while allowing its congregations to maintain the look and feel of a Greek Orthodox Church. The only visible difference in the sanctuary from that of a Greek Orthodox was a confessional in the back. 

Then came the main event, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. While a powerful and clearly holy place, as we traveled from Golgotha to the tomb, what struck me most was the division of the place. The Catholics, Orthodox, Armenians, Syrians, Franciscans, and others all have a stake in the Church. As such, each group controls, cleans, worships, and maintains a certain portion, with the Holy Sites resting in shared, common areas.  As such, arguments arise over things such as: changing a light bulb in common areas (someone from the State Department does it in secret at night so no argument arises), removing scaffolding around the tomb (its still there), and maintaining the roof of the Church (its caving in). Our Jewish tour guide sees the Church as an example for the Middle Eastern peoples: though these groups don't agree on much,  they cohabitate in relative peace. However, I was struck by the extreme division in a place that is supposed to represent our oneness in Christ. 

Our cultural immersion continued as we undertook the seemingly normal task of trying to grocery shop in a foreign country. Everything is cheaper the further away you get from Jerusalem, so we took our first foray into Bethlehem, across the checkpoint, to get groceries. The checkpoint in an experience all its own. You feel like you are entering another country, which you basically are, as you walk through multiple turnstiles  down narrow hallways, and around 30 feet high concrete walls covered in barbed wire. While we were able to walk straight across without even opening up our US passports, most people spend a couple minutes having their papers examined and fingerprints taken. It really is another world. Grocery shopping wasn't too bad, as they had many American brands we recognized. I mean, my staple diet of pasta and tomato sauce can be found anywhere. Our biggest challenge was carrying eggs back across the checkpoint without breaking them.  

Today, I headed back across the checkpoint to go to my service project for the first time.  As part of my program, we each are assigned a non-profit group within the community, working to increase our cultural and language immersion as well as supporting local groups within the community. I was thrilled to hear I'd been placed at Jerusalem American School in Bethlehem. This school was founded in 1997 by a Christian group and serves both Christian and Muslim Palestinian students, grades K-12. The school has both American teachers from the States and local Arabic teachers. While today was mostly getting acquainted with the school and students, I get to help tutor high schoolers in American Literature as well as design a curriculum and help teach World Government Systems to the 12th graders. The kids have already warmed my heart. They are so full of life, light, and hope, despite growing up in a world constantly marred by violence and conflict. As I saw them running around at lunch, playing games and horsing around regardless of religion, ethnicity, or gender, I was struck by the fact that these kids are our future. It is not the hardened politicians of today who will solve the crisis, but these bright faces of tomorrow. And I was filled with hope.