Wednesday, March 20, 2013

"Spring Break" in Eilat

On Thursday, our Islam class ended, and we had a free weekend before we left for our travel component. Thus, we dubbed the weekend our "spring break" and decided to hit up the Israeli vacationing hot spot, Eilat.  Located at the very bottom of Israel, Eilat sits on the Red Sea, smack dab in between Egypt and Jordan. Eilat is a cross between Miami and Las Vegas; a beachy resort town with lots of flair and big lights. 


Waterfront during the day
Waterfront at night
We had fun exploring the boardwalk, full of vendors and shopkeepers with beach ware and ice cream galore. It was strange being in a vacation town where people were wearing shorts and tanks tops after being surrounded by such a modest culture for the last 2.5 months. At first, we were horrified that everyone was showing so much leg (how our standards have changed!). But since it was 100 degrees out, we soon relished the ability to wear shorts without attracting stars from every person on the street!



We spent a day at one of the nature reserves, snorkeling on the coral reef of the Red Sea. We saw all sorts of tropical fish, just like you'd see snorkeling in Hawaii. Except we could see Jordan across the narrow straight. So almost the same thing. 
Jordan
Jordan is literally right across the sea from where we sat. We could have swam there easily. We wanted to see how close Egypt was, so a group of us started walking. After 45 minutes, we reached the Egyptian-Israeli border. While we didn't go across (don't worry Dr. Holt we followed the rules), we did take some pictures and chat with the border guards  Looking up, we could see the top of the ridge lined with barbed wire fences, marking the border line. Next time, Egypt, next time. 

Egypt
 The next day, we hung out at the beach, alternating between swimming, sunbathing, and exploring the boardwalk. Before we knew it, it was time to get back on the bus and make the 5 hour trek back to Jerusalem. Fortunately, this bus ride took us through the Negev desert, so we got some great sunset views across the rolling dunes. All in all, a great "spring break" at the beach. Tonight, we leave for our travel component, visiting Islamic Spain, Morocco, and Turkey, before heading back to Israel. Stay tuned for more posts on the other side!

Sunset in the Negev Desert

Monday, March 18, 2013

Dome of the Rock

Well, it only took 8 weeks of living here, but I finally visited the Temple Mount, seeing Al-Aqsa Mosque and the famed Dome of the Rock. The Mount is only open to tourists during certain hours of the day, meaning that in order to see it, we had to be in the Old City, in line, at 7:30am. Of course, it was us and 300 of our closest friends in line, so we waited there a while. Once we made it through Israeli security, we were led up a narrow catwalk, taking us over the Western Wall and onto the Mount itself.
Al-Aqsa Mosque
Group of women studying the Koran
Al-Aqsa Mosque
The Temple Mount is huge; the size of about 8 football fields! It is a wide open plaza, with Al-Aqsa Mosque at one end, and the Dome of the Rock at the other. Around the edge of the plaza are madrasas, or schools, where kids are studying the Koran. Around the plaza, kids are playing soccer on the grass, teens are chatting underneath trees, groups of women and men are meeting and studying the Koran, and families gather for lunch. While for tourists, access to the Mount is limited, for Muslims, it is their central gathering place, their city park of the Old City. Al-Aqsa, the actual mosque on the Mount (no, the Dome of the Rock is not a mosque), it massive and impressive, dominated by its iconic blue dome and intricate mosaics around the outside.



The Dome really is the most beautiful building I've ever seen. Built over the rock where Muhammad is said to have ascended into heaven to meet with Abraham, it shocks your eyes with its brilliant blues, deep greens, shimmering golds, and intricate geometric patterns. It is so large, that as you walk around the perimeter, you can't even see the golden dome. It really is breathtaking, and I could have stayed there staring at it all day. We explored the Mount, wandering around the Dome, attempting to photograph it from every identical angle. Non-Muslims aren't allowed inside usually, but we did sit and watch people coming in and out of the building to pray. But at 10 like clockwork, men with walkie talkies emerge and usher all the tourists off the Mount, a true feat in crowd control. The Dome of the Rock is truly magnificent, and a sight everyone should try to see before they die. 



Sunday, March 17, 2013

Gethsemane

After living here for two months, we realized we'd never visited the Garden of Gethsemane yet...whoops! So last weekend, we decided to remedy this fact. Our first stop was to the Church of All Nations, the iconic church set in the garden itself. It's called the Church of All Nations since so many countries contributed financially and artistically to its completion. 


To enter the church, you first must enter the garden, which consists of 12 olive trees that they can date back to the 1st century AD, so they really did stand during Jesus' time. They are awesome sights; about 10 feet around, with gnarled and pitted trunks that look as though they should be dead. 


The inside of the church is dominated floor to ceiling by giant mosaics of Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane. The alter is built over the stone where Jesus is said to have prayed before his arrest. It was one of the most beautiful churches we've seen here. But we got an added bonus; a Catholic mass was underway when we went in, so we stayed to watch for a while. It looked as if an entire diocese from England was there, along with 12 priests, dressed in red garb leading the service. 




The next stop in the Gethsemane area is to the Tomb of the Virgin Mary. As an Orthodox church, it is dominated by lanterns, burning incense  icons, and candles as pilgrims wait in line to kiss Mary's tomb within the heart of the church.

Mary's Tomb
 The final stop around Gethsemane was to the Church of Mary Magdalene, a Russian Orthodox Church whose golden spires are easy to spot in any picture of the Mount of Olives. While the sanctuary was closed, we did get a peek inside the chapel, as well as amazing views of the Old City and the Eastern Gate.


It was a fun stop to make before the Holy Week festivities begin, for not only did we beat the crowds that will flood the garden this week, but we got to see the sites the dominate the bible story which will be read in churches everywhere in the next week. 


Galilee



After a whirlwind day trip to the Galilee region in the north, we've officially seen most of the pilgrimage sites of Jesus' ministry in the region. Here's a few picture highlights of the day: 
View from Mt. Carmel
 Our day began with a stop at Mt. Carmel, where Elijah and the prophets of Baal did battle. Our guide, a master's student at Jerusalem University College in Biblical Geography, led us throughout the day, giving us the biblical background to what we were seeing, both narratively and geographically. We read the corresponding bible stories at each location, then had some time for exploration and reflection before heading to our next stop.
Church of the Annunciation-Nazareth

Church of the Annunciation-Nazareth

Mary's house

Church of the Annunciation-Nazareth
Church of the Annunciation-Nazareth
Japanese Mary-Church of the Annunciation-Nazareth
Chilean Mary- Church of the Annunciation-Nazareth
Australian Mary-Church of the Annunciation-Nazareth 
Our next stop was Nazareth, at the Church of the Annunciation. Our visit took place on International Women's Day, which we thought was fitting. Inside the church, you see the supposed site of Mary's house amid Byzantine ruins. Upstairs the sanctuary is covered with mosaics of Mary found around the world. Not only were these breathtaking, but they were an amazing testaments to the commonalities and differences of Christianity across diverse cultures. The Japanese Mary and Jesus looked Japanese, the Australian image contained elements of nature, the Chilean image showed Mary coming from the Andes Mountains.  Yet all showed Mary as the loving mother of not only Jesus, but of the world.

Church of Peter's Primacy 

Church of Peter's Primacy 
Our next stop was to the Church of Peter's Primacy. A tiny church on the Sea of Galilee, this is supposedly where Jesus asks Peter three times if he loves him, and establishes Peter as the rock of the Church. Every Pope visits this church sometime during their first year, so the new pope will be where I stood soon!

Capernaum 
1st Century AD ruins in Capernaum 
Peter's mother-in-law's house-Capernaum- where Jesus would have stayed 
On the shores of the Sea of Galilee-Capernaum 
Our next stop was to Capernaum, where you can still see ruins that date back to the 1st century, during Jesus' time. The synagogue that stands there now was built during the Byzantine Empire, but was built on the foundation of the first century synagogue that Jesus would have prayed in. You can also see the ruins of Peter's mother-in-law's house. This is the home where Jesus would have stayed when he visited Capernaum.

Golan Heights in the distance
Boat ride on the Sea of Galilee
Boat ride on the Sea of Galilee 
Next, we took a very windy boat ride on the Sea of Galiee. From the north-west side of the sea, which is really a glorified lake, you can see into the Golan Heights, which I thought was really cool. Since it was windy, we only went out for a bit. But, we did read the story of Jesus calming the storm on the sea, while in a storm on the sea. We tried, but none of us could walk on water though ;)

Mout of the Beatitudes  

Church of the Beatitudes 

Reading the Beatitudes on Mount of the Beatitudes- Boom! 
Our final stop was to the Mount of the Beatitudes. The text doesn't specify which hill Jesus gave his famous sermon on, but this is one of the possibilities that has been widely visited as the site since the time of the Byzantine Empire. One quick word about "mountains" here: they are glorified hills. The Mount of the Beatitudes is shorter than the hill I live on in Bellingham. I don't know who decided to name all these places, but they obviously had never seen the Cascades. Joking aside, it was pretty amazing to sit along the hillside, reading the Beatitudes, overlooking the Sea of Galilee. Since its mostly fields surrounding the mount, its easy to picture how the scene must have looked in biblical times, with crowds gathering around the foot of the hill in the now palm tree orchard. The top of the hill looks out over the flat plain, making amphitheater-like acoustics. While all the stops were amazing to see, the Mount of the Beatitudes was by far my favorite, and the most powerful experience of the day.

Thursday, March 7, 2013

Shabbat Dinner

What does it mean to keep the Sabbath holy? Growing up, the only real difference between Sunday and any other day was going to church in the morning and a stop at Lafeens for donuts in the afternoon. In the Christian West, we don't really have time for a true day of rest. Our lives are so busy, we can't afford to miss out on a day of productivity. 

In the Jewish tradition, resting on the Sabbath is a key theological practice, and we got to experience this first hand last Friday as we attended an Orthodox synagogue and Shabbat dinner with Jewish families. On Shabbat, beginning at sundown on Friday and ending at sundown on Saturday, observant Jews abstain from all forms of work. This includes things like driving a car, turning on a light switch, or writing down a phone number. While these things seem silly from task oriented, Western-centric worldview, I came away from our Shabbat experience with a new found appreciation for the spiritual reality behind these practices. By taking away the work and distractions of everyday life, God becomes the center focus of the day.

 "The meaning of the Sabbath is to celebrate time rather than space. Six days a week we live under the tyranny of things of space; on the Sabbath we try to become attuned to holiness in time. It is a day on which we are called upon to share in what is eternal in time, to turn from the results of creation to the mystery of creation; from the world of creation to the creation of the world." -Abraham Joshua Heschel

Since it was an Orthodox synagogue, the men and women sat on separate sides. Our host families for the evening jokingly called their congregation a "baptist synagogue," for much of the service was taken up by boisterous singing and dancing on both sides of the divider. The whole service was in Hebrew, so we didn't know what was going on most of the time, but it was fun to people watch, hum along to the music, and watch the men especially jumping and dancing with fervor. Any expectations I had were completely thrown out the window with this exuberant display of joy in worshiping God coming in an "orthodox" synagogue. 

We were then divided into groups of two to join a family for Shabbat dinner. This synagogue was in a largely Anglo neighborhood, so most of the families we joined were American or Western European ex-pats who spoke English. We all walked home with our families (since they couldn't drive), and began an evening filled with amazing food, thought provoking conversation, and a glimpse into the life of an orthodox Jewish family.

The family I joined was made up of the father, who was American, the mother, who was Canadian, and their two kids, an 18 year old daughter and 16 year old son. We were also joined by their friends, an orthodox Rabbi who's been serving a congregation in Japan for the last 10 years, and a Persian conservative feminist Jewish woman, who was a family law lawyer in New York for 12 years. We discussed every conversation topic imaginable; politics, religion, economics, theology, the military draft, immigration, the end times, the 2-state solution, coexistence, and racism. 

One of the most interesting conversations of the night for me was with the 18 year old daughter. She graduated from high school in the spring, and is taking a gap year right now before she is drafted into the military in August. During her gap year, she is enrolled in a Jewish Studies program with other Orthodox girls. This group of girls will then become their own unit in the army in August. Programs such as these are a way to make the army easier for Orthodox girls, who face additional challenges in the army trying to maintain their religious identity and practices. Normally, Orthodox kids are exempt from army service because of this, an issue that was a diving factor in the recent Israeli elections. When I questioned her about this, she said that Orthodox kids are given the choice between military service or a national service alternative. She chose to do military service. She said it had been a tough decision, but in the end, three factors helped her make her decision. First, she's lived in an Anglo-Orthodox bubble all her life. Being in the army will give her the opportunity to interact with other elements of Israeli society that she's never gotten the chance to see and learn from before. Second, the army here is a common denominator. Since military service is mandatory after high school, all people in every walk of life have this shared experience. It is a topic later in life that all can relate to. She didn't want to miss out on this. Finally, she said that if her skill set was equally well suited to military service or national service, she would rather serve her country in the military. When she enlists, she will go into education, helping low income Israelis who never finished high school to get their G.E.D equivalent  and teaching Hebrew to newly immigrated Jews. She was so passionate about her country, the military, and her opportunity to serve. It was a truly enlightening and humbling experience. 

We've gotten a lot of personal interaction on the Palestinian side, but its been much harder to make these personal connections on the Jewish side. That's why Shabbat dinner was such a powerful experience for me, for it allowed me to put a face, a name, and a story to the Jewish/Israeli narrative we've been studying. It is easy to point a finger at the "other." It is much harder to but the blame on a real, living, breathing person, one who has hopes, dreams, and goals just like you. On both sides of this conflict, there are numerous individual stories of heart break and heroism. Both sides have suffered losses, and both sides have acted unjustly in certain instances. But the way forward is not through continued demonization and "us" vs. "them" mentalities. The way forward is through simple interactions like we had on Friday night; sitting down with real people, sharing a meal, swapping stories, and really digging into the hard issues. Progress will come not from policy, but from understanding and the humanization of the "other."